I met my travel companions in Ethiopia in 2011. Three visits later, here we are again. It is a country that is easy to fall in love with.
The Danakil Depression is one of the lowest points on earth. 123 metres below sea level, this is a harsh place. Sulphur extractions form other worldly landscapes. Camel caravans trek slowly across the salt flats, reflections shimmering in the salt water. Men squat breaking salt into slabs, shielding their eyes from the bright reflection of the sun. Only the toughest survive here.
Within the Danakil Depression lies Erte Ale, a shield volcano rising up to 623m. We set off at dusk, darkness falling with each step we took. Within half an hour, my eyes were straining to make out where to put my feet amongst the undulations of lava. Step by dark step we neared the summit. But when we got to the summit we didn’t stop there. We descended down again. INTO the volcano. Standing on the interior rim is an exhilarating but nerve-racking experience. A large crack is visible where one day the overhang will crumble into the molten lava below. Sulphur dioxide wafts across as the wind whips the steam around, damaging one of my companion’s lungs temporarily. No health and safety here! Sadly that smoke meant we couldn’t see down into the pools of molten lava in the crater below. What an exhilarating sight that must be, knowing you’re stood on top of it!
Tigray’s rock-hewn churches are less well known than those of Lalibela. But their locations, tucked away up cliff faces, make them even more intriguing. Abuna Gebre Mikael sits atop one of the striking plateau that rise out of the plains below. A steep walk according to Lonely Planet….within minutes we were rock climbing. A narrow gulley, strewn with boulders, leads to the plateau above. The church itself sits carved into the highest cliff, hidden from the Muslim invaders of old. Those locals who attend the services here must be fit and devout to make the climb each week. Beautifully decorated with colourful biblical frescoes, Abuna Gebre Mikael is not only an architectural marvel but a beautiful place to take a few minutes of solace. Made extra special by the effort taken to reach it and the stunning views of the plains of Tigray below.
Heading south and with no more time to explore the north, molten lava and more remote churches are calling us back. Trip four is beginning to take shape….