Madagascar is often called the eighth continent. Originally a part of Gondwana, it has been isolated for 80 million years. As a result its evolution is unique. Probably the best example of this is its lemurs. 112 different species which are all endemic to Madagascar. From rodent-like mouse lemurs to giant bamboo lemurs and cute ring-tailed lemurs, it has them all. Unlike the suicidal animals of the eighties computer game, these animals live sedately in the trees, munching leaves and sunbathing. The leaps from tree to tree do look suicidal but they make it every time, hopping comically branch to branch.
The chameleons are also fascinating. Varying in size from a fingernail to c.18” long, they camouflage themselves with the branches they rest on. As per the saying, it changes colour to adapt to its environment. There are few things faster in this world than a chameleon’s tongue. It explodes like a coiled spring to catch its prey. Who would have thought reptiles could be so exciting?
The baobab are also largely endemic to Madagascar. 8 out of the 9 species are found here, 6 of them endemic. Rumour has it some of them were here when Jesus walked the earth. But it’s hard to tell. As they are not actually made of wood you can’t count the tree rings. The watery sinew can only be carbon dated. Knobbly branches protrude from the top of the trunk. A gnarled jumble in the sky. We wonder why no-one has built a tree house on the top. Stairs up the often hollow trunks. An up-market lodge at the top of a baobab? I would stay there!
A quick note on the pronunciation of baobab. For years certain friends (you know who you are!) have laughed at my pronunciation. Bough-bob. Well it turns out I am only one letter out. So I am going to stick to my way of saying it. It’s the (almost) authentic Malagasy pronunciation if anyone asks! So you can stop laughing now!
The zebu is the workhorse of Madagascar. Technically not a product of unique evolution, it is found all over Africa. What makes the zebu any better than a regular cow, I have never quite worked out. But they pull carts, plough fields and generally make the Malagasy world go around. As in other parts of Africa, a man’s wealth is judged by the size of his zebu herd. Two of the guys I was with on my trip were fascinated with this way of life. They joked with our local guide about buying a zebu. So they did. Apparently 500 000 Ariary buys you an 18-month-old zebu. $2 a year covers upkeep. Dada will continue to look after him in the herd. Progress updates will be sent regularly. And when he’s fat enough we are all returning to eat him. Well not me, I’m vegetarian.
