Revisiting fond memories is always a risk. We knew that. Returning to Turmi after five years was indeed a bit of a disappointment. The market was, on the surface, the same. Hammer men and women stood around in traditional costumes. The men in their striped loin cloths, holding their small Read more
We were in the Omo Valley in 2011. An amazing place with many different tribes still living a traditional life. We were back to revisit old friends and explore some new ones. The Surma live to the west of the Omo River. Off the beaten track. Which is why we Read more
I met my travel companions in Ethiopia in 2011. Three visits later, here we are again. It is a country that is easy to fall in love with. The Danakil Depression is one of the lowest points on earth. 123 metres below sea level, this is a harsh place. Sulphur Read more
My time in Uganda has sadly come to an end. It’s been fulfilling, fun and sometimes frustrating but an excellent experience that I would thoroughly recommend. I will be sad to leave but excited about the next stage of my adventures. Ethiopia, here I come….! As a farewell post I Read more
Although Uganda is one of the more developed African countries I have been to, it is a relative term. 38% of people still live below the poverty line of $1.25/day. Life expectancy is a mere 58. Houses (more often than mud huts these days but these are by no means Read more
My trip to Sipi Falls started badly and got worse. Not the falls themselves but the journey. The driver was an hour late. That wouldn’t normally surprise me, it’s African Time. But I had been told 7am sharp. Not far into our journey he then overtook a lorry in front Read more
We all know we should eat at least five portions of fruit and vegetables a day. Carbohydrates should be limited and wholemeal where possible. Not in Uganda! Meals consist of at least 2, often 3, forms of carbohydrate. Rice, pocho (wheat flour mush), Irish (that’s potato to you and me), Read more
My Christmas present to myself was a wildlife tour to the west of Uganda. A long drive took me to Kibale National Park, home to most of the chimpanzees in Uganda. After an evening of luxury (my first hot shower in over a month!), I began the walk through the Read more
Despite being a very Christian country, it is so uncommercialised that I keep forgetting it is Christmas. Instead of gifts everyone gets a new Christmas outfit so the only sign of the festive season my side of the river is the hawkers walking round selling clothes and shoes. Even in Read more
The landscape changed gradually from bustling town to sugar cane plantations to dusty villages with grass-topped mud huts. My destination was Kibuku in Uganda’s Eastern Province. We were visiting Samuel’s clan for their annual gathering. Well, his mother’s clan actually. Samuel takes the clan of his father. It is the Read more
So I’ve moved. With no end to my hostess’s murder trial in sight and with the maid gone on indefinite maternity leave, I had no choice. No cooking, cleaning or laundry is only sustainable for so long. Two weeks it would seem. So bye bye to waterside bungalow living and Read more
I stand out like a sore thumb here. Although Jinja is fairly touristy, barring the nun down the road I seem to be the only white person this side of the river. In the small villages we visit children stare at me in either bewilderment or pure excitement. Cries of Read more
My home for the next three months is Bukaya, a small village on the outskirts of Jinja, Uganda. I’d requested a few amenities before I left – a hot shower (I don’t mind slumming it occasionally but 3 months is a long time with just a bowl of cold water Read more
The Goroka show is the highlight of the PNG cultural calendar. Of the 800+ tribes in PNG, about 50 make the journey each year to showcase their culture at the Goroka show. In a country of few roads or navigable rivers this may mean a journey of many weeks. The Read more
There are over 800 tribes in Papua New Guinea, each with its own language, making this one of the most diverse countries in the world. Each tribe may only cover the area of one village giving each one it’s own unique tribal culture. Sing-sings are the traditional welcome to each Read more
In 2014 my employer, a large UK airport, sent me on a leadership course to explore my own personal purpose and values. Sounds like corporate bullshit? Maybe. But that course changed my whole perspective on life. I didn’t immediately identify my personal purpose. I had a few ideas floating round Read more