Revisiting fond memories is always a risk. We knew that. Returning to Turmi after five years was indeed a bit of a disappointment. The market was, on the surface, the same. Hammer men and women stood around in traditional costumes. The men in their striped loin cloths, holding their small wooden stools. The women in goatskins and collars, their twisted hair dripping in ochre. But look more carefully. Many were wearing western dress, some combined Read more…
We were in the Omo Valley in 2011. An amazing place with many different tribes still living a traditional life. We were back to revisit old friends and explore some new ones. The Surma live to the west of the Omo River. Off the beaten track. Which is why we went. We camped in a Surma village in order to integrate with the community, at least to the extent possible in a few days. The Read more…
I met my travel companions in Ethiopia in 2011. Three visits later, here we are again. It is a country that is easy to fall in love with. The Danakil Depression is one of the lowest points on earth. 123 metres below sea level, this is a harsh place. Sulphur extractions form other worldly landscapes. Camel caravans trek slowly across the salt flats, reflections shimmering in the salt water. Men squat breaking salt into slabs, Read more…
My time in Uganda has sadly come to an end. It’s been fulfilling, fun and sometimes frustrating but an excellent experience that I would thoroughly recommend. I will be sad to leave but excited about the next stage of my adventures. Ethiopia, here I come….! As a farewell post I thought I would share five words that sum up my time here…. • Mzungu – if any word sums up my time In Uganda, this Read more…
Although Uganda is one of the more developed African countries I have been to, it is a relative term. 38% of people still live below the poverty line of $1.25/day. Life expectancy is a mere 58. Houses (more often than mud huts these days but these are by no means a thing of the past) consist of a couple of rooms for living/sleeping. Cooking is done outside. Long drop toilets are often shared by several Read more…
My trip to Sipi Falls started badly and got worse. Not the falls themselves but the journey. The driver was an hour late. That wouldn’t normally surprise me, it’s African Time. But I had been told 7am sharp. Not far into our journey he then overtook a lorry in front of a police roadblock. The police don’t tend to like that and pulled us over. He then didn’t have the right documentation on him so Read more…
We all know we should eat at least five portions of fruit and vegetables a day. Carbohydrates should be limited and wholemeal where possible. Not in Uganda! Meals consist of at least 2, often 3, forms of carbohydrate. Rice, pocho (wheat flour mush), Irish (that’s potato to you and me), chapatti. And huge piles of them too. Twice a day. Vegetables, on the other hand, are rare. Matoke (mushed banana) is the national dish but Read more…
My Christmas present to myself was a wildlife tour to the west of Uganda. A long drive took me to Kibale National Park, home to most of the chimpanzees in Uganda. After an evening of luxury (my first hot shower in over a month!), I began the walk through the forest in search of primates. After an hour of walking well-trodden trails, we stumbled upon our first chimpanzees. And not any old chimpanzee, but the Read more…
Despite being a very Christian country, it is so uncommercialised that I keep forgetting it is Christmas. Instead of gifts everyone gets a new Christmas outfit so the only sign of the festive season my side of the river is the hawkers walking round selling clothes and shoes. Even in Jinja it is very quiet. The run up to Christmas only begins a week before, so only in the last few days is the market Read more…
The landscape changed gradually from bustling town to sugar cane plantations to dusty villages with grass-topped mud huts. My destination was Kibuku in Uganda’s Eastern Province. We were visiting Samuel’s clan for their annual gathering. Well, his mother’s clan actually. Samuel takes the clan of his father. It is the first time in 20 years that Samuel has been back to his mother’s village so I’m not sure either of us knew what to expect. Read more…
So I’ve moved. With no end to my hostess’s murder trial in sight and with the maid gone on indefinite maternity leave, I had no choice. No cooking, cleaning or laundry is only sustainable for so long. Two weeks it would seem. So bye bye to waterside bungalow living and hello to mad family life. My new family has 3 children of 14, 10 and 6. First impressions were not great. Not that they’re not Read more…
I stand out like a sore thumb here. Although Jinja is fairly touristy, barring the nun down the road I seem to be the only white person this side of the river. In the small villages we visit children stare at me in either bewilderment or pure excitement. Cries of ‘mzungu, mzungu!’ follow me as I pass though on my boda. There’s even a mzungu song. It’s a great way to connect with the local Read more…
My home for the next three months is Bukaya, a small village on the outskirts of Jinja, Uganda. I’d requested a few amenities before I left – a hot shower (I don’t mind slumming it occasionally but 3 months is a long time with just a bowl of cold water to wash in), wi-fi (for the job-hunting) and easy access to town. What I’ve ended up with is so much more than I expected! I Read more…
The Goroka show is the highlight of the PNG cultural calendar. Of the 800+ tribes in PNG, about 50 make the journey each year to showcase their culture at the Goroka show. In a country of few roads or navigable rivers this may mean a journey of many weeks. The show was established in the 1950s by the Australian kiaps with the aim of reducing the high level of tribal warfare seen at that time Read more…
There are over 800 tribes in Papua New Guinea, each with its own language, making this one of the most diverse countries in the world. Each tribe may only cover the area of one village giving each one it’s own unique tribal culture. Sing-sings are the traditional welcome to each village, telling a story of the tribes’ history and culture through dance and song. The Huli wigmen are the face of PNG. Their picture adorns Read more…
In 2014 my employer, a large UK airport, sent me on a leadership course to explore my own personal purpose and values. Sounds like corporate bullshit? Maybe. But that course changed my whole perspective on life. I didn’t immediately identify my personal purpose. I had a few ideas floating round but couldn’t quite nail it down. Then in February 2015 I went on a holiday to Antarctica. An amazing experience of course. But it was Read more…